All Chef Ought to Learn At This Spot’: Modest Turkish Dining Spot Ranks Fourth on List of London’s Top Dining Destinations.

Whenever curating a list of London’s top restaurants, one might foresee familiar Michelin-starred establishments. But, tucked high among these gastronomic heavyweights is a simple salonu found in a far-flung part of north London.

An Unexpected Recognition

The small Turkish spot, specialising in the culinary delights of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s south coast, has been crowned the 4th top restaurant in the capital by a respected food magazine. This honour has made the proprietors totally surprised.

“I’m completely surprised,” states the owner’s son, referring to his parents’ relentless work that resulted in their modest place securing such a lofty spot on a respected 99-strong list.

The Appeal of Modesty

This little venue, which started as a basic cafe before its change into a buzzing food hotspot, has maintained much of its original charm. It fits just over 20 people and, except for the dazzling live cooking show, the interior remains essentially unchanged. “It is a tiny and intimate space,” says the owner.

The Namesake Creation: Tantuni

In the end, it’s all about the food, and this establishment more than succeeds. The restaurant’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a simple joy. Choice of meat—either lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to maintain a moist, juicy texture.

The meat is then added into a sizeable pan with spices and oil, which are added in bit by bit. As the savoury mixture bubbles up, freshly made lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is placed on top to absorb all the flavours. Thinly sliced onions and a handful of parsley go inside before the flavourful meat is wrapped neatly inside.

It is often eaten with a squeeze of lemon or some pickles. The end result is a strong burst of taste, with gentle hints of sumac, sharp onions and red, paprika-infused oil bringing it all together.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is chopped and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. A leading food critic called this dish “among London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

For a sweet finish, the restaurant’s künefe goes down a treat. It is soaked in less syrup than is typical, giving it a deeper, nuttier and more balanced profile.

Surpassing the Stars

Remarkably, this modest spot has ranked above several renowned three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself close to the top of the list, trailing other high-profile dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave this place stuffed for under £25, similar meals at top-tier establishments can run into significantly more than that figure.

The Ethos of Heart

The restaurant is also among several Turkish restaurants featured and is located well outside the city’s central zones. “It’s not about luxury. London is an pricey city. There is an belief that in an expensive place you’re going to have the top service and finest food but I do not subscribe to that,” states the owner.

“I feel what is crucial is friendliness, a welcoming atmosphere and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The philosophy is supported by the list’s curator, who suggested that if he was in a position of power, he would “require to have every chef in London visit this restaurant as a masterclass, to show them the pitfalls of overcomplication, and to show what is possible if you do a few – or three – things to their absolute best”.

A Path of Hard Work

In contrast to most chefs managing kitchens in the list’s top ten, the driving force behind the food did not train at Michelin-starred establishments. “I feel truly proud of our restaurant and our mum,” adds her son.

Many restaurants require years to find their footing, but this one first opened its doors seven years ago. Its popularity is thanks to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“My mum was extremely tired. She would source produce in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Each item is handmade; she would do all of this. She is a single mum and she managed a social life but her friends would visit to help her. She had children and a house to look after as well. All of these roles forged her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he says.

A Accomplishment for the Culture

The restaurant’s recognition is bound to resonate outside its own premises. “I think many people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” concludes the owner, emphasising the greater significance of this culinary triumph.